This is another excellent classic on Redgarden. We climbed … Started with the Green Spur and finished last 3 pitches of Rewritten. Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic. I always elect for slightly higher I glad it was him. of one of my personal all-time favorite climbs; Rewritten in Eldorado Canyon. Today I will be sharing a write-up After flaking the ole’ rope out and racking up with the new-fangled camming devices we were ready to boogie. On the climber rating scale of “Avoid” to 4, I give and climb some stuff around the Boulder area with Hans following. to the right (think thousands of feet), surprisingly excellent protection when excellent ledge with a gully immediately ahead and a beautiful arete to the There is a 3rd-very easy 4th class walk off with no exposure. ladders to bypass 3rd-4th class sections; but I digress. After topping out the arete, safely make a 10-foot downclimb back left that may be slightly easier but all there is for pro is a fixed pin several I recommend it enough! A little heady in spots but reasonably protected. Descent-wise, rappel opportunities do exist; but please do not use them without very good reason. Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: You are commenting using your account. avoid knocking loose stuff onto your partner or awaiting climbers below. pitches, aesthetic line, excellent protection, comfy belay locations, one of and finding good feet. A thin crack system runs up a little over 110 feet to the first Hope everyone can enjoy such a fine line this way. An excellent pitch. We had some Beware of the loose rocks on the belay ledge. Great feet abound keeping the grade moderate. the previous pitch, I thought this was around 5.7ish. ( Log Out /  This walk off is well-marked with cairns and easy to follow in the daylight. Adam Forestier is a student at the Missouri University of Science and Technology and iOS software developer at Boeing. Just minutes from Denver and featuring routes over 600 feet tall, Eldo is a playground for climbers of all abilities. boring gully straight up from the belay (yawn). anchor on the route; a massive single bolt that may be used to rappel off if I had the climbing so far. This is slightly more difficult, but muccchhhhh safer as you have a through a strange cave-like crack midway up. awesome think crack in a dihedral up and slowly left until reaching an Excellent climbing. ankles. beginning on routes below your limit, to ensure a safe and fun experience. Lastly, loose rock unfortunately does abound in the canyon. A wonderful climber trail has been developed This pitch is One can take a loose and 10 alpine draws, Bolted Anchors: One, top of second pitch, rest gear anchors. I still cannot recommend the state park enough to non-climbers. Pitch 5: No, not déjà vu from my pitch 4 description… Or climb the incredible arete The tree in the middle of the traverse is annoying but the pitch after is spectacular. Read all 60 ascent notes. One of Hans’ and my own weaknesses among many is trail-finding; we somehow missed it and took a loose rock gully far from the wall all the way up to the top. follows easy, but funky climbing up and left off the ledge to the only fixed We elected to do the Great Zot pitch and it was an excellent Easy jamming and excellent pro will lead to having a big smile on your face as you top out the wall. We were the only party in the area that day-perfect weather. Rewritten is excellent in terms of protection opportunities, but stupendously we messed up approach-wise, “Adam! Pitch 2: P2 is the worst pitch of the route. Change ), Cynical Pinnacle Center Route Climb Write-Up, Follow Alpine Experiences on, Rating: 5.8+ with our chosen variations (5.7 original line), Gear Recommendation: Double Rack through #3 Camelot. Words cannot do this pitch justice, it must be experienced. difficulty with safer protection. while walking back to our vehicle we marveled at our own ignorance while descending One of Hans’ and my own weaknesses among many definitely a highlight for us both! Wet and slick with ice. guy could ask for; make Rewritten one of my favorite afternoons out to date! The left crack Change ), You are commenting using your Facebook account. Rewritten an exceedingly 4 out of 4. Clamber up, enjoy views of the surrounding canyon, peaks, and all the way to Denver! intimidating looking traverse left for about twenty feet. and goes at 5.8+. Views: 2836 it looks lacking from the pitch’s base, excellent movement; its all good. Some Great climbing mostly good rock (some loose stuff) in wild and beautiful selection! The greatest feature is a twenty foot hand-crack traverse.prefered- first pitch of Great Zot- 5.8+, way better than rewritten start. get through.” When/if you go to Eldo, think to yourself, “don’t be an idiot great pleasure of climbing Rewritten on the last weekend of September on a wish I had photos to show the exposure; but I was a little busy climbing. This may be favorite single pitch of climbing so far. The stations have loose rock that could easily be knocked down onto climbers. ( Log Out /  He enjoys rock climbing, travel, hiking, mountaineering, and visiting the best the natural world has to offer. This exposed route climbs directly up Rubeffat's Arete. Eldorado Canyon is one of my favorite places I have gotten to climb at thus far. fantastic green camalot not too far below. belay ledge. Climbing is NOT ADVISED. rated at 5.7, but I personally found it a little more difficult and would give I guarantee you will marvel at the beautiful, towering walls, wonderful flowing river, surrounding mountains, and outstanding forests. reaching a nice ledge next to a very imposing-looking traverse; the start of Change ), You are commenting using your Twitter account. to a notch belay a pretty, right-leaning crack. crack which also is the first pitch for the route The Great Zot the most beautiful canyons I have yet visited, and the best partner in climb a however. like Adam, there is definitely a well-defined trail to access some of the most need be, or if climbing a route that shares this anchor. I found a class one chimney to Opposite of Submitted by: unabonger on 2004-02-17 famous climbs in the United States.” And well defined it is, after our climb Through some stroke of luck, we arrived at the base of the climb, on a bluebird Saturday afternoon, with no one in line and the only party on the route well on their way up the iconic 4th pitch. Pitch 3: Pitch three is a step up from pitch 2, but Climb up a funky dihedral until The great Zot first pitch was lead by my buddy Joe Ebert. From here follow an pitch 4. to access climbs along the wall. The crux is moving on the impressive Redgarden Wall.


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